Morning Glory

What a glorious day! As soon as I woke up it began to snow and within an hour the ground and roof tops were covered in a white blanket. It's so beautiful to see the trees bedazzled - I've been waiting to see this for days. My counterpart even called to see if I was finally pleased because apparently all I've talked about for the past month is when it was going to snow. It's strange how much a bit of snow can uplift my mood!

By 11am the internet went out but that's not so abnormal as a bout of wind or rain or even sun for that matter can cause it to malfunction. Instead of checking my email, I went to shower but no water - again, not that out of the ordinary. Alas, I went to the fridge to see what wonderful dish I just might whip up today and discovered that the power was out as well. Oh my, a little snow and it all goes to pot, this could be a long winter. Nevertheless, I was still quite excited about the snow, so I put on my long underwear, performed a little Europa FM jazzercise to warm up and continued winterizing my wardrobe. I figured I might as well go out to enjoy the splendor and run some errands.

Walking into town I attempted to catch some snowflakes on my tongue but quickly realized that my jerky head movements resembled a drastic tick. I immediately ceased that movement as I'm finally getting to know my neighbors...I don't want to go back to being the crazy American. Down the street they are building a ridiculously gianormous house and I've come to routinely speak with one of the workers as I walk by each day. Earlier this summer, my running struck his curiousity and one day he stopped me to ask what in the world I was doing and why. Our acquaintenceship only blossomed from there. When his work consists of digging holes, which strangely appears to be at least once a week, he likes to joke that he is digging to America.

Although it's Saturday and the bank is closed, I was still able to successfully access the ATM - sometimes I get nervous that technology will fail and I will get trapped in the entrance so I usually stick to open bank hours. I wasn't entirely sure if the electricity place (yes you still have to pay your bills in person here) and post office were open so I headed there next, no such luck. However, I was able to find a store open to buy more credit for my phone. As I walked through town, I noticed they were setting up a stage on the Plateau. Could it be true? Maybe there was going to be an outdoor concert in the snow. Just around the riverbend I ran into a man, who had approached me on the street two months ago asking if I was American. How do they know? And even before I utter a stutter of Romanian? It's not like I go streaking through the quad waving a giant American Flag. That's one thing that will never to cease to amaze me...unless of course, I find out what that tipping point is. Any hooters, he explained there would be some Popular (folk) dancing on the Plateau tonight. Just when I didn't think this day could get any better; I have been yearning for some form of live entertainment or any entertainment not produced by my imagination. However, he then started talking about chess and that Bobby Fischer was going to be at the High School next Tuesday, so perhaps I was not understanding him correctly because isn't Bobby Fischer dead? I'll just have to wait and see.

I continued onto the Piata to buy some fresh produce and I noticed the vendors were almost down to just root vegetables - potatoes, carrots, onions. I passed two Roma ladies dressed in traditional Gypsy garb, who I recognized from a few days ago. One of them had been performing some type of magic voodoo on a man (I apologize that I don't know what it was exactly, please excuse my ignorance, I will be sure to do my homework.) She had been talking to the man and at the end made a hand motion, as if she were releasing powder or dust, towards his mouth and then his unit. Absolutely fascinating, I must find out more. Today, when I walked by she said she had just the thing for me but I kindly declined because many of the vendors make such offers. I bought onions from my favorite lady, who is extremely patient with my Romanian and often encourages further discussion, for which I'm quite grateful.

On my way to the super market, I ran into two of my sitemates on seperate accounts. We agreed to meet up later to make dinner and check out the "concert." After getting my groceries I headed home satisfied with my progress. An older neighbor lady, who reminds me of a combination of both my grandmas, met me at her gate. She expressed disappointment that I did not stop by the other day when she had asked. I apologized and explained I must have misunderstood her. Nevertheless, she smiled, tweaked my cheek like I was 5 and gave me a plate of food to take home. When I reached my nextdoor neighbor's house, she was waiting for me with my mail (for some reason it goes to her house.) When I asked how she was, she replied unhappily, "Ce sa fac? What to do? There is no water, power, etc." For some reason when I smiled and stated in agreement, "nope, nothing," a small smile broke across her face - the first one I've ever seen. I climbed my stairs, stomped my boots and took in one last breath of the fresh snow air. I could not have been happier.

Although...I watched Into the Wild last night and at the end he realized that "happiness is only true when shared." That exact sentiment is what makes this experience difficult. I definitely am not isolated in the wilderness of Alaska but I do have a lot of me time, so it was humorous to see some of the similarities of how one fills that time - talking to yourself, having loud random outbursts, etc. Well, time to fac foc. I guess on days like today I can be happy that my house is heated with wood.

In Search Of A Turkey

After being in Bucharest for a couple days I arrived home at 5:30am to a nice temperature of 44 degrees Farenheit inside my humble abode so I immediately stoked up the soba. Five hours, two cups of coffe, a hot chocolate and now a tea later, I'm still bundled in my down jacket and sleeping bag. Despite the chilly interior, it still has not snowed in Campulung Moldovenesc and frankly I'm growing a bit anxious. I have not seen snow since I left home...9 months ago (exactly today). I can't believe how fast it has gone by, I'm already a third of the way done. I hope the rest does not go by too quickly.

Last Thursday was a difficult day - I just could not grasp life nor the language. All I wanted to do was get away from Romanian for the day but it is impossible from the moment I step out my front door. However, even when I am at home...there's the radio, cooking ingredients and sometimes the Landlord drops by...all Romanian. But like the good days, the bad ones also come to an end.

On the other hand, Saturday was one of the best days I've had here. I went hiking with my sitemate, Thomas and Iulian, the gym teacher from the high school. Iulian brought us to a new place that overlooks Campulung, yet another beautiful view. We saw wild boar tracks, which obviously terrified and forced me to develop an escape route up the tree. 800lb piglets shouldn't be able to climb trees, right? Well, for that matter neither can I so praise 8lb 6oz baby Jesus that we did not encounter one in the flesh. We did however encounter a bunch of turkeys but the farmer was not willing to sell us one for Thanksgiving, so the hunt must go on. The highlight of the hike was going down through the forrest that was quite steep and the ground was covered completely in leaves. We were able to slide down on our butts the entire way, sometimes moving at an incredibly fast pace. Definitely one of the most enjoyable things I've done in Campulung. Yeah...so there's not a whole lot to do here.

When I went home, two neighbor ladies and my landlord were in the street cutting up a tree they had taken down. I said hello and went inside. I hesitated briefly and went directly back to where they were working. This is the kind of opportunity I have been waiting for since I moved in, one to meet my neighbors and bond, so I couldn't afford to let my nerves get the best of me. They thought I was quite odd for wanting to help but warmly accepted. Although we did not exchange many words, we got to work side by side for a good hour and a half. Another lady brought out coffee and cookies, so we "am facut o pauza," in which my not so glorious Romanian skills were demonstrated.

Afterwards, I met Thomas for Ciorba Radutieana, a delicious garlic chicken soup of which I can't get enough. The restuarant owners know us and chatted with us for a while. It's nice to know familiar faces, familiar faces that also know you. On my way home a neighbor girl approached me and asked or more so verified, "Esti Betsy? (you are Betsy?)" I had never seen her before so it was exciting to meet yet another neighbor and talk briefly. It has taken a long time but people are slowly opening up to me...it's a nice feeling to be reached out to.

That night I took the train to Bucharest with my Counterpart, Gabriela, who presented at a conference Advocacy Through Blogging about the project we've been working on. If you click on the link Blogging The Dream in the right column you can read another blog, where I write about one of the projects I have been working on with the NGO, Fundatia Orizonturi. In short, we received a grant from Global Voices to increase the use of technology amongst marginalized groups. We are currently training 15 individuals how to use the internet and eventually create blogs to share their experiences with mental health issues, as well as demonstrating that they too are functioning members of society. On the left is my favorite participant during a training.

As long as were on the topic, I'll briefly share what else I've been doing since it has been nine months and I haven't really done so yet. In addition to the one day of training we have for Blogging the Dream each week, we also have another day during the week that the participants can come in for extra help and practice what they have learned. Once a week I teach an Enlglish course for any Mental Health beneficiaries who are interested. Throughout the week, the organization has other social activities such as a game day and literary club, which I usually attend. Fundatia Orizonturi works closely with the Psychiatric Hospital, a state institution, to collaborate on various projects, so I get to hang out there as well attending pscyhotherapy groups and work on a variety of activities.

Additionally, I work at Centrul Scolar, a school for children with special needs, doing social integration. In terms of projects, not much has developed with them yet but it is slowly getting there. Several of the children come from extremly poor families and live in surrounding villages, so approximately 60 children live at the school during the week. I've been helping with an after school program so the kids have some structured activities. It's just getting off the ground but I do some English with the children who have asked to learn. Otherwise, I've just been spending time, playing with them until we are able to put together something a bit more organized. There is usually one, maybe two other adults supervising these children - it is chaos. The majority of these kids have extreme behavior issues and it's not uncommon for me to see kids young as 8 smoking, so the need for structure is definitely there.

Other weekly activites include two lessons with my Romanian tutor, a much valued time. Recently I've started to attend "aerobics" at the Cantina. Not sure how one would describe such an occasion but it takes place in an old, old wooden auditorium with about 10 other ladies in leggings. It's all about the cultural integration, and my counting has vastly improved!

Anywho, back to the conference in Bucharest. We were put up at a fancy hotel and fed amazingly! Who knew the nicest hotel I've ever stayed in would be during my Peace Corps experience? Nevertheless, no complaints here for I got to enjoy all the glorious amenities - heat, TV and never ending hot water. For the first time since I have been in Romania I had the privelege of eating steak, salmon, green olives and cheddar cheese - almost better than Thanksgiving dinner (or at least the one I will be attempting to host next week.) The conference itself was quite interesting and I was in awe of the ladies in the translation booth! We got to wear headphones, providing our language of choice - I was amazed throughout the entire experience.

Venturing to the Village

Regardless of where I am, I always seem to get a sense of nostalgia around this time of year. The time when fall gradually fades into winter and culminates with the holiday season. For me, it has always been about reviving the essence of family.

One year ago today, my godfather was driving back from working in Alaska and died unexpectedly. Finally, when his life had come together, it was taken away. My heart goes out to my Aunt, my godmother, my confidant. Not just today but every day. I love you Missy, if only there were more people like you.

Thus, my tiny village family experience this past weekend couldn’t have been more perfectly timed. However, that was not the original plan, it never is with me. Sometimes I feel as if I frequently get myself into strange predicaments but perhaps that’s just what I seek. Either way, this time around things were simply lost in translation. Originally (or so I thought) my friend invited me to a festival for a few hours in Frasin, a small town 30 km away. We were to meet there on Saturday, so I arrived via the only conventional way, which shall go unspoken for the sake of my mother’s sanity. Astonishingly, I went to the right place at the right time and found the right person. But to no avail, there was not a festival in sight. It turned out that we were actually going back to her village Doroteia and I would not be returning until the following day, which I could not argue because there was no way I’d find my way back out of BFE (Grandma, scuze but that means Bum F*#@ing Egypt.)

Back at Geta’s house, I met her husband and two adorable children. I’m pretty sure the 4 year old thought I was slightly MR because I was not able to understand everything she said. Nor could she understand why I did not have children and not once did I surpass the perpetual “but why?” game. Nevertheless, we became friends and played all afternoon. She even insisted on sleeping with me, which was fine until I experienced her night terrors sporadically throughout the night. That was not exactly in the sleepover arrangement but luckily I was able to calm her quickly with my inner chi.

In the late afternoon, we went to a small family “name” day celebration. It was St. Gabriel day, so anyone with a similar name celebrates; it’s almost like a second birthday. The four course meal was delicious but they kept making me eat more and as a result I think my meat intake has been satisfied for the remainder of 2008. Envision a giant meat and cheese tray, five layers deep…okay, now remove all the cheese, any form of garnishes and all thinly sliced deli meat…and replace with all forms of pork imaginable. Throw in a splash of mustard and you’ve got yourself a mouth-watering delectable appetizer treat. As long as were on the topic, all three men in attendance were missing a finger. An odd observation indeed but one that ironically symbolized the harsh demands of village life.

Additionally, it was interesting to discover that within each family there was at least one member working abroad in other EU countries, particularly Germany, Spain and Italy. However, this does not come as a surprise since 10% of Romanian’s population is working abroad and sending money home but it was simply more prevalent in the small community. Consequently, many low paying jobs such as construction are left open and are now slowly being filled by immigrants from Asia. Despite the need to fill these vast openings, the government is hesitant to grant visas to these immigrants because they are concerned of the race issues that could ensue.

On Sunday we walked through the village and ended at the farm of Geta’s parents. They had several animals including two terrifyingly large pigs, sheep, dogs, horses and cows, one of which I milked. The poor heifer was desperately in need of some Utter Cream. Afterwards, I was fed one of the best meals I’ve had in Romania and much to my surprise, it included sheep meat. Everything I ate there was completely home grown, raised, all natural, what have you. I was sent home with the largest bag of pickled vegetables for the winter. They also gave me fresh yogurt and milk, which has tasted the least cow teatish out of all the milk I’ve had thus far. All very exciting for a suburban gal but what astonished me the most was their gracious hospitality and treating me as one of the family. Although I couldn’t have been much more foreign to the experience, it provided a much needed sense of belonging. Unfortunately, this year it will be difficult to revive the essence of my own family but at least I now have the hope of reinventing one.