Dracula

Never before have I desired to read Dracula but I figured (as cliché as it is) that I probably should while in Romania. Much to my surprise, I’m glad I did…if not for the sole reason to see that Stoker had similar observations (even though he never stepped foot in Romania) of the land and people that I too am now experiencing. However, the astonishing part is that his were made over 100 years ago. Based on that statement, it would be all too easy to say that Romania has not progressed much but in reality, I’ve found that perhaps they are a people deeply rooted in tradition.

“We are in Transylvania; and Transylvania is not England. Our ways are not your ways, and there shall be to you many strange things.” And indeed there shall. I also use this starting point as a disclaimer; observations do not determine the difference between right and wrong, they simply determine that “our ways are not your ways.”

“I find the district […] is in the extreme east of the country, just on the borders of three states, Transylvania, Moldavia and Bukovina, in the midst of the Carpathian Mountains, one of the wildest and least known portions of Europe.” Bucovina is where I’m now a proud (possibly biased) resident and can confidently say is the most beautiful part of Romania. I believe it was named after the area’s beech (buche) forests after being annexed by the Habsburg Austrians in 1775. Coincidentally, I just finished reading Balkan Ghosts: A Journey Through History by Robert Kaplan, who also references this exact quote from Stoker to further describe Bucovina. I am in full agreement with Kaplan in that there is “this sensation of remoteness,” one that has brought an overwhelming yet refreshing calmness to my life.

“It seems to me that the further east you go the more unpunctual are the trains. What ought they to be in China?” Actually, I think the trains are probably the more punctual form of transportation here. However, punctuality in general really isn’t something one dwells on so much, which is a nice change of pace for those of us who always seem to be running behind by five minutes. The sense of time has been one of those calming aspects but also a bit frustrating at times when you’ve been conditioned to the mentality of; “If you’re early, you’re on time. If you’re on time, you’re late.”

“I read that every known superstition in the world is gathered into the horseshoe of the Carpathians, as if it were the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool; if so my stay may be very interesting.” Superstitions, whether you believe in them or not, always seem to sneak in your life. Honestly, I’m a wood knocker. Can’t tell you why but you can be sure that I knock it. One of my favorite cultural aspects here has been learning about all the different superstitions, which I have slowly revealed in previous posts. They have been a great source of entertainment and to my advantage, they are endless.

“Here and there we passed Cszeks and Slovaks, all in picturesque attire, but I noticed that goitre was painfully present.” I don’t know why but there are indeed an abundance of goiters.

“You must not walk here; the dogs are too fierce.” Story of my life…or so it often seems. However, the tables may be turning. Like most houses here, my Bouse does not have screens. Not really a problem; as there aren’t too many bugs nor strange men that will crawl through a window. But! I’ve always had this silly little fear that cats would come in and maul me in my sleep. I agree that’s a bit ridiculous so as the temperatures have increased I’ve been a little more liberal in my window opening. The insects inside have been getting quite large. In fact, there was such a gianormous moth that I saw it poop as it fluttered to my light. Nevertheless, I wasn’t so silly after all. Not once but twice one of those little buggers (and by little bugger, I mean a life size feline) entered my Bouse. I suppose it’s better than when the squirrels were chewing through the screens (chewing and entry) in Highland Park; they weren’t exactly laying on my bed waiting for me to come home like these filthy felines. As long as were on the topic, taxidermy isn’t just for the hunted. Yes, this is a picture of a stuffed cat mounted on a house. There are “many strange things” indeed.