Maramureș: The Ever Enchanting Excursion

Trekking through Maramureș was almost a fairy tale experience – it was like traveling back into time (or at least even further back into time than the Bucovina region). Although I finally spotted tractors versus the use of a scythe, the main road continuously led us through a plethora of remote villages, where life appeared to be at a standstill.

After our westbound departure from Cȃmpulung Moldovenesc, we attempted to pick up some additional students who live in other villages along the way to Cȃrlibaba. Unfortunately we were only successful in capturing a few others for a couple had to work (most likely in the fields or picking berries and mushrooms) and one was simply too tired after a 3 day wedding. Nevertheless, we had a van (almost) full of ecstatic kids and continued on through the Prislop Pass, who’s tightly wound bouncy mountainous roads served as a catalyst for what seemed like a non-stop puking rotation amongst the students for the next 36 hours.

We made a pit stop in Moisei to see a circular monument that was created to honor the 31 victims who were shot by Hungarian troops, who then also set fire to the entire village in 1944. One of most impressive wooden monasteries (Maramureș is known for its wooden structures, particularly churches) that we saw on this excursion was Bȃrsana Monastery. This religious compound only amplified the enchanting manner that the day had taken on. While the shingles were not made of peppermint candies nor the towers of licorice, I half expected Hansel and Gretel’esc like figures to come walking out. However, thinking back now, there was a poor little fawn named Bambi caged alongside a peacock. And speaking of licorice, I recently received an import of Twizzlers from my grandma that I brought along to share with the children. They thoroughly enjoyed them but they were like “what is this cauciuc (rubber) you’re feeding us?” Nevertheless, I was amused.

Weaving around căruțas, cows and bunici, our van ran parallel with the Ukrainian border until we reached our final destination, Săpȃnța. The attraction here being Cimitirul Vesel (the Merry Cemetery), where death isn’t so bleak and mourners are filled with hope. Since 1935, a village wood sculptor has donned each grave with a personalized carved cross displaying a painted picture and an etched limerick, providing a witty synopsis of their life. The painted blue crosses further embodied my magical experience; never before had I walked through a cemetery with such comfort and warmth in my heart. I must admit I have taken an uncanny interest in these life capturing grounds throughout this past year. Cemeteries provide you with a glimpse into the society in which it is located. Whether it is a historical, cultural or economical indicator, one can capture a foretaste of the people around.

Our last visit was to Muzeu al Gȃndirii Arestate (the Museum of Arrested Thought) that is housed in the former maximum security prison in the town of Sighetu Marmației. This museum was created “In memory of the young, intelligent people at the forefront of Romanian intellectual life who were imprisoned because they did not believe in communism and died, through torture, in this odious prison.” Walking through the cells that now display various aspects of the suffering that the communist regime caused was truly a sobering experience. The concept of eliminating a country’s intellectuals and filling higher leadership positions with the uneducated in order to secure power is honestly mind-boggling. Although I have been slowly piecing together the aftermath of communism in Romania, I am continuously astonished by the atrocities that were inflicted against their own people.

Additionally, having read Night, I was intrigued to discover that Sighet was the home of Elie Wiesel and also the place from which he was deported during WWII. It’s been fascinating (in a shocking manner) to learn that Romania use to have one of the largest Jewish populations in the world until then, when their many Jews and Gypsies were tortured, deported and sent to their deaths. The complexity of this country’s history has been utterly enthralling.

This excursion was part of a social integration project Traveling Beyond Barriers that I have been doing in collaboration with Centrul Școlar, a school for students with special needs, and Fundația Orizonturi, an NGO working with mental health service users. These individuals have limited resources and opportunities to explore their surroundings, let alone learn about the area in which they directly live. This project allows them to do so in an alternative learning environment amongst their community members. Traveling Beyond Barriers is not only helping improve the empowerment, education and health of the students and users but also invites the community to look beyond the stigmas that are so deeply ingrained in society.